After a few days of exploring the Snæfellsnes peninsula, we headed up into the Westfjords.


Places we stayed on our road trip

Our itinerary was this – two nights at a horse farm near Dynjandi waterfall, three nights in Flateyri, one night at Djupavik, and then into North Iceland for a night. In retrospect, I wish we had done a night on the southern end of the Westfjords – perhaps near Flokalundur or Patreksfjorður. The portion of highway 60 from there to Dynjandi is gravel, mountainous and rather nerve-racking to drive. As it was, we completely skipped the southernmost peninsula.

We were in a bit of a rush to get to Patreksfjorður. We had missed hitting the vinbuðin in Borgarnes on the Saturday, and all vinbuðins are closed on Sundays. We had tried stopping off in Bodardalur around noon, but the vinbuðin there was only open from 2 – 4. And the Air BnB we were staying at was quite a drive from any town. So….we drove straight to Patreksfjorður, then on to Reykjarfjardarlaug (try saying that 3 times….fast or slow) for a relaxing soak in the hot pot there, before heading towards the Air BnB.

It was a wet, overcast day, with intermittent drizzle and rain, and along the drive we saw a young couple hitch hiking. It was a bit of a debate if we should pick them up – not because they looked dangerous (they looked soaked through), but because the car we rented (Carlita) was small, and the trunk full of our bags. But we couldn’t just abandon them there, and drive on by, so we pulled over and offered them a ride….if they were OK with having their bags on their laps.

So in they climbed, and we began the veeerrry slow drive to Dynjandi (were they were planning on camping). Poor Carlita had some trouble with the inclines with the extra weight, and we had to stay in first gear. But we got there, and left the couple to their (soggy) fate, and continued past the parking lot to our home for the next two nights.

The next day we went to a hotpot in Talknafjorður, and then to Bildudalur where we toured the Sea Monsters museum. It’s essentially a one-room museum, partially set up like an old-time explorers den, chronicling the history of sea monsters in Arnarfjorður. After some tea and dessert in the attached café, we headed back to the horse farm. We stopped in several spots (pulling Carlita off the road) to explore a bit of the mountain tops – we investigated a waterfall, and hiked along an old under-used track. We also stopped to hike up to Dynjandi on our way back to the Air BnB.

It’s actually a cascade of waterfalls, rather than just a singular fall. There are several lookouts, at each fall along the cascade, as you hike up to the base of the top most fall. The area was a soggy and muddy when we visited (it had rained the day previously), and the black flies were atrocious. (While Iceland may not have mosquitoes, they make up for it with their black flies.)


Our third day, we headed up towards Flateyri, where we were staying for a couple of nights (originally 3, but we ended up only staying 2). We stopped to climb Kaldbakur, just above Þingeyri. After that, we drove to Skrudur Botanical Garden, slightly off the main highway to Flateyri. We were lucky enough to hit it just before a tour group arrived, so we got to walk around and enjoy the plants and trees in peace.


We used Flateyri as our base for exploring the region around Isafjorður and Suðureyri. The tunnel linking the three cities is a little disquieting, as it narrows to one-lane, but there are signs at the entrances indicating who has right of way (going to Isafjorður, you do, coming from Isafjorður, they do), and pull-in bays every 200 metres or so on the side who has to give way.


Our first day was spent booking a kayak tour, wandering around Isafjorður, and then soaking in the municipal pool in Suðureyri, before driving back to Flateyri and visiting their Museum of Nonsense. The museum has gathered full or partial collections from local residents and put them on display – everything from pez dispensers, to model airplanes, zippos, pens, playing cards, police memorabilia (from around the globe, include some municipal police hats and patches from Canadian cities), spoons, , salt shakers….it really is a museum of nonsense, but worth a visit!


The next day, we packed up and headed back to Isafjorður for a kayak around the end of the fjord. We had booked a 2-hour tour, as we’d never kayaked before, and wanted to get a head start on our drive to Djupavik. We went with Boreas Adventure, who provided waterproof pants, jacket, and weird kayak gloves (leading to hammerhead shark jokes because we’re children), along with the kayak, paddle, and ‘skirt’ to keep the water out of the kayak.

We kept mostly along the shore, paddling over a shipwreck, and learning some history about the area from our guide. We saw a couple of harbour seals – one lounging in shallow water, and one swimming, but thankfully/sadly no whales (what I would do if I saw one I’m not quite too sure). It was a misty, cool day, but we kept warm enough by paddling. When we stopped, it was a bit chilly with the wind blowing over the water, but overall not that bad.


The drive to Djupavik wasn’t too long. We stopped at Litlibaer, an old, sod-roofed farmstead that has been turned into a museum/café, for a stretch and some tea to warm us up. There are actually quite a few things to see along highway 61, although we decided to keep driving through. We wound our way along the fjords and up to Djupavik, which today consists of a collection of cottages, the remains of a former herring factory, and a hotel – which is the former women’s dormitory.


We checked into the hotel, got back into the car to drive to Krossnesslaug, and…..realized that we hadn’t even thought about gas. We were down to a half tank – so enough to get back to Drangsnes/Holmavik (according to Hot Pot Iceland, the closest gas station), or enough to get up to Krossnesslaug and back….but there was no way we could do both and still be back at the hotel in time for dinner. Thankfully the hotel staff informed us that there was one lonely pump up at Norðurforðjur, the last town before Krossnesslaug. Going on the assumption that it was a) still working, and b) had gas available, we drove the hour and half to Norðurforður and ….got gas!


The next day we did the tour of the abandon factory. The hotel staff give a tour every day at 10 and 2, which lasts about an hour and a half. The owners of the factory shut it down, intending to reopen it some day, so the factory is very nearly completely intact, give or take some damage due to time. We were told to dress warmly as it can be chilly in the factory, but we were fine in jeans and long sleeve light sweaters (cold Canadian blood runs through our veins).


From Djupavik we drove along the coast to Drangsnes, where we took a soak in the hotpots. Located right beside the road, there’s a small parking area on either side, and a changing rooms/washrooms across the road. We had the place to ourselves for the first bit, but gradually other tourists showed up to enjoy a soak as well. We headed back onto the road to Holmavik for lunch, and a stop at the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft.


From Holmavik we went to the HI Sæberg hostel, located across the fjord from Borðeyri. The hostel is located just off the ring road, making it a good pit stop on your way to/from Reykjavik. We rented a small cottage on the waters’ edge – while the kitchen wasn’t great, we had the use of the bigger kitchen up at the main building, and it was nice to have a secluded and private spot to ourselves. We stayed two nights, and used it as a base to explore Grettislaug, and Hofsos, before driving back to Reykjavik to return Carlita…..and spend a couple of days in the capital.

Whirlwind Snaefellsnes

At the beginning of our Iceland trip, we stayed in Borgarnes, since we didn’t want to be driving too far on our first day on arrival in Iceland. And since we were staying in Borgarnes, and had a day to spare, we decided that we’d tack a whirlwind tour of the Snæfellsnes peninsula onto our trip to the Westfjords.

We decided to go clockwise – driving the southern coast in the morning, and then the northern coast in the afternoon. We packed our lunch at the hostel, filled our water bottles, called up the route on our phones (always pay attention to the road, as GPS can be off and where it says turn….might not be a turn. Be sure to follow the road, and use the GPS as a back up), and set off.


Our first pit stop was at Raudfeldsgja, a fissure in a cliff face near Arnarstapi. There’s a small parking lot near the road, and a path that leads fairly straight up to the fissure, where the birds wheel overhead. You can walk into the fissure(although we chose not to as it was pretty wet, and we didn’t have a change of shoes – come prepared with a pair of water shoes/boots/sandals, to take advantage of this) but it was still interesting to do the short hike up to the cleft, and look up (and up) the cliffs, and a welcome break to stretch our legs.

From there we continued on to Hellnar, to take a short 2.5 km hike back towards Arnarstapi. The hike starts off on wooden walkways, before narrowing to a beaten track through lava rocks and fields. There are wonderful views of the glacier, as well as the ocean, and cliffs where birds nest. It’s not a difficult hike, and the trail is easy to follow. We pulled up a couple of rocks near Arnarstapi, to eat our lunch and watch the birds.

We had some tea and dessert in the café back at Hellnar, before heading back onto the road. Our plan was to stop at the Vatnshellir Cave – who doesn’t love caving? – but we were unfortunately either a half hour too early, or a half hour too late, and decided not to wait for the next tour.

Not long after hitting the road, we picked up a young couple hitch hiking. This put the curb a bit on our ‘stopping wherever we’d like to’ plan, but we did pull over into a viewing area along the northern tip of the peninsula to stretch our legs and take a few photos.

We dropped our passengers off at Kirkjufell, which they planned to climb, as we continued on to our last stop – the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, where we would not only learn how hakarl is made, but what it tastes like (hint: not so good)

It’s a one room museum, run by the family. Inside is a plethora of fishing related gear and artifacts, and after a brief presentation of how hakarl is made (from the traditional way it used to be made, to the more modern way it’s done now) they give you the chance to sample a piece (with some rye bread to cut the taste a bit if you’d prefer).

You’re also welcome to tour the drying house out back – but I warn you, the smell there is definitely worse than the taste.

From there it was back to Borgarnes, to celebrate Canada Day at the hostel (we threw our own party because that’s what you do when you’re the only Canadians in a hostel in Iceland)

Roadtripping Iceland

A few years ago, Husband and I went to Iceland for the Eve FanFest. We spent a few days in Akureyri, before going back to Reykjavik for the Fest itself.

And of course, we had a blast because Iceland is that amazing. We also decided that we wanted to go back and see a different part of Iceland – so this summer, we headed back to Iceland, to do a road trip of the Westfjords.

We had a total of 10 days to spend in Iceland, so the plan was to spend 2 nights in Borgarnes (exploring the Snæfellsness peninsula), then to Laugabol Horsefarm by Arnarfjorður for 2 nights, then up to Flateyri for 3, then to Djupavik for a night, before heading into North Iceland and staying near Borðeyri (actually, across the fjord, at the HI Sæberg hostel). Our actually plan only deviated a little bit – we cut our time in Flateyri to 2 nights, and added a night at the Sæberg hostel.


We had rented a car with Budget (through I Heart Reykjavik) –  we picked the car up at the airport and returned it in Reykjavik. We took photos of any damage already done to the car, and went over it with a rep to confirm the scratches, dings and dents. We did get a hard sell on ‘sand and ash’ insurance (which the agents at Budget assured us was nearly required if we were going along the south shore) but ultimately the numbers for the liability didn’t make sense (nearly quadruple the cost of the car) ….and we weren’t going anywhere near the south shore, so we opted out of it.

We stayed predominately at Air BnBs in the Westfjords, which meant that for several nights we’d be a considerable drive away from the nearest town…and thus the nearest restaurant, or grocery store. Our host was amazing, and included this information in our email exchange, so we were well prepared. It’s definitely a good idea to either ask your host, or take a look at a map to see how much planning you’ll need to do for food and/or drinks.

There’s no rush to get groceries in Keflavik (or in Reykjavik) if you’re going to pass through/stay in Borgarnes, as there are several grocery stores available there as well. In fact, there are smaller grocery stores located around the Westfjords, but it’s by far cheaper to buy groceries at the Bonus in Borgarnes or Isafjorður, depending on which way you’re going.


A nice taco meal with an Einstock beer to wash it down

For alcoholic drinks – well, stock up at the airport. If you don’t (for whatever reason), you’ll need to hit a vinbuðin – their version of the LCBO + Beer Store. Each vinbuðin has differing hours of operation – generally, the smaller the town, the shorter the hours, and every one is closed on Sundays. Be sure to do some research before heading into the Westfjords.

Driving in Iceland is fairly easy – or at least we found it so. Driving in the Westfjords is easy….but terrifying. Paved roads give way to gravel through parts of the southern end, as well as through the summer roads that cut through the West. There’s a tourist map available (for free in various places, and available online) that shows which roads are paved, which are gravel, main vs secondary. Most of the gravel roads are bordered by mountain on one side and cliff face on the other, and can be slick in wet weather. While locals will drive with (reckless, some would say) abandon, we found ourselves slowing down…sometimes because our little car couldn’t make it that fast up the grade, and others because the descent seemed a bit perilous. At the beginning of our trip we worried about every ding we heard as rocks bounced off the car, but eventually became more relaxed. (And didn’t add any damage to the car!)

As you can see from the photos, we didn’t rent a very large car, and it did well enough on the roads of the Westfjords. Husband wasn’t overly fond of driving Carlita (I can’t drive standard, and the windy, one lane, mountainous roads of the Westfjords didn’t seem like the place to learn) simply because he was unfamiliar it – how it would handle on the slick dirt roads after the rain, but otherwise our little Hyundai i10 handled the roads extremely well. If in doubt, ask!

One website that proved incredibly useful was Hotpot Iceland. Not only did it indicate locations of hot pots, it also showed gas stations. It wasn’t 100% accurate, as at least one gas station that we used wasn’t given on the app (the gas station in Norðurfjorður) but used in conjunction with the map I linked to above, and by asking locals you shouldn’t have a problem. (That being said, do keep an eye on your gas tank).

We bought a sim card in the airport – we ended up getting a NOVA card, with 10 GB of data (way more than we needed). We ended up with not so good reception in the Westfjords, with the exception of areas around towns.






Whale-watching in Iceland: A Day Tour of Husavik

I’ve gone whale-watching out of Reykjavik (August) and Husavik (early May). The first thing you need to know is it is highly unlikely that you’re actually going to see a whale – as in, a humpback whale breaching the water and the wonderful tail fin that you see in photos advertising whale-watching. That’s just probably not in the cards. What you are likely to see is the back fin of a whale as it slowly crests in the water. Very anti-climactic.

But anyway. I saw minke whales, and a tiger shark, while out from Reykjavik. In Husavik, we saw a blue whale (it breached several times over the course of about an hour.) So you’ll get to see something, just….not what you might be imagining you’ll see.


The back fin of a blue whale

If you have time, and you’re going to be up north, and you still want to go whale-watching, I’d recommend Husavik over Reykjavik. (That’s not to say that whale-watching out of Reykjavik is bad, it’s just busier – more boats, freights, ferries, etc – so the chances of seeing something big are a bit lower.)

In Husavik, we were given enormously thick and warm winter suits – think an adult-sized onesie designed to keep you warm outdoors – because it is cold out on the Arctic Ocean in late April. The boat we were on was on the smaller side (although not small – I had no fear of waves sweeping me overboard) and had no ‘indoor’ portion – we were out in the elements for the entire two to three hour trip. We headed out over the open water, to an area where whales are known to feed, and luckily found a blue whale. (We were a little early in the season for whales) We watched the whale breach a few times, before heading back. On the return trip we were given hot chocolate, and a cinnamon bun type pastry.

For people who get motion-sick, I really really really suggest taking some kind of motion-sickness pill. Ross got a little sick on the trip back, and couldn’t enjoy the hot chocolate or pastry (I, however, got to enjoy twice as much!) The water can get choppy, so it’s a good idea to have something with you.

Before or after whale-watching, you can pop into the Whale Museum, located near the harbour. Inside you’ll find lots of information about the whales found around Iceland, the ocean, and even several whale skeletons displayed. The museum isn’t large, but it does have a second floor where most of the skeletons are located. Well worth a visit.

Another museum located just on the edge of town is the Husavik Museum, also known as the Culture House (or was when I was there in 2013.) Much like the Skogar Folk Museum, this museum gives the visitor an idea of how people lived in this whaling community. There are also stuffed examples of various mammals found in/around the area (including a stray polar bear).

If you’re staying in Akureyri and don’t have a car, you can easily take the Straeto bus to Husavik. Route 79 takes you straight there, in just over an hour. The bus stop in Husavik is near the harbour, making it very easy to find your way around. (Not that the town is so large that you could get lost). You’ll have time to go on a whale-watching tour, see both museums, tour the town, have something to eat, and catch the bus back. (I should note that there is apparently another museum in Husavik, the Exploration Museum, but I didn’t get there so I can’t speak to it’s worth as an attraction.)

And as a final note: Back in Reykjavik, the whale-watching was slightly warmer, which isn’t surprising because it was in August. The boat had an indoor, heated section, which was great because it started to rain on our way back to the harbour. If you’re only in Iceland for a short period of time, or you don’t have enough time to detour off the Ring Road to Husavik, and you still really really want to go whale-watching, you can still have an enjoyable trip out of Reykjavik. The harbour is close to the downtown core, and you can just pop by to go on a tour.

What to do when you’ve done what to do – Re-visiting Reykjavik

My BF is heavily into EVE Online.  (I’m ok with that – he’s a hockey widower in winter, I’m an EVE-Online widow all year)  Every year there’s a fanfest in Reykjavik at the end of April for, well, fans of the game.  They organize a few activities – Golden Circle tour, Blue Lagoon, a pub crawl in Reykjavik; along with fanfest activites at Harpa concert hall  There’s also an activity for the non-Eve players who accompany their friends and/or significant other to the event.

Anyway.  I’ve done the Golden Circle tour, and the Blue Lagoon.  I wasn’t against doing either again – I didn’t get particularly good photos last time; or rather – at Strokkur, I was taking a video and some man stepped right in front as Strokkur erupted.  And then I forgot to bring my camera to the Blue Lagoon.  So doing those two again was fine by me.  But what to do with my days that were free, while the BF is off fanfesting it up?

I should note – we didn’t spend all of our time in Reykjavik.  We head up north, to Akureyri (I have never typed that right the first go around), for three days before the fanfest.  I didn’t make it there during my last trip, so everything there was new.

So from the beginning:


Akureyri from the air

 Akureyri is in northern Iceland – while we could have taken the bus we said “uh, no.” and flew with Air Iceland.  It’s a short hop of a flight, really, that leaves from the domestic airport in Reykjavik.  International flights land at Keflavik airport, so we hopped the FlyBus into the city, and decided to drop off one of our bags at the Downtown hostel, where we had booked to stay when we returned to Reykjavik.

We spent 3 days here early in our trip – April 20 – 23.  Everything was still snow covered, but it wasn’t too cold – about -3C, maybe a little warmer during the day.


We spent a total of one day (two afternoons) walking around Akureyri – the downtown portion of the city is fairly small.  We also walked out to a bridge across the fjord to get some great photos of the city one afternoon.  We popped into a few different pubs and restaurants as well – we were very pleased with the food at the Thai restaurant (Krua Siam) as well as the local favourite Bautinn.  A lot of the pubs didn’t open until 8:oo, so we missed visiting a few that we thought might be interesting, but we did go into the pub beside Café Paris – good beer, nice atmosphere, and interesting décor.  The Italian Restaurant wasn’t worth much – the meatballs tasted like they had been frozen, then re-heated when needed.  Tip for those planning to visit:  Most shops don’t open until 10:00 or 11:00, and most bars don’t open until 8 p.m.  Try to plan dinner for later in the evening.

The other two days we took two side-trips.  One day we booked a Lake Myvatn day-tour with Saga Travel.  Highly recommended!  Since it was still a little before the tourist season, it was a small group – there were 5 of us in total, including the BF and myself.  Our tour guide, Anton, was great – he’s from the area, so he was incredibly knowledgeable about the places we were going.  We visited Goðafoss (a waterfall, where supposedly the lawspeaker threw his heathen idols upon converting the country to Christianity), followed by Skútustaðagígar (false craters in the Lake Myvatn area), dimmuborgir (where the Yule Lads live), grjotagja (a small lava cave with thermal hot springs inside),  hverir (stinky mud pots, and sulfer flats), ending with a soak at Myvatn nature baths.  We had a really great day – and we were lucky to have incredibly weather!
Lake Myvatn nature baths
This is a full day tour – we got back to the hotel about 5 or 6 in the evening.  We were originally told we would have only an hour and a half at the hot springs, but seeing as it was such a small group we extended it (with everyone being enthusiastic with the idea) to two hours.  Admission to the nature baths was included in the price we paid for the tour itself.  Not included was lunch.  We stopped at Vogafjos (The Cowshed Cafe) a family run restaurant that is built beside a cowshed – in fact, it shares a wall of windows, meaning you can see into the cow shed from your seats.  We were lucky enough to have a view of some calves that had been born not too long before.  As a quick review:  the food is excellent (the BF enjoyed the arctic char, I had a massive plate of lamb shank) and reasonably priced for northern Iceland.
Lake Myvatn
One tiny bit of useful information:  In the winter (before May 1), the tours run from 8 a.m.  After May 1, they begin at 10:00.  When we booked our tour through the HI Hostel in Akureyri, they told us 10, so we had a bit of a mad scramble at 8 when the tour guide showed up. We were really lucky in that our hotel (Hotel Akureyri) allowed us to pack up a bit of a breakfast to take with us – breakfast had been included in the price we paid for our room.

Icelandic horses near Lake Myvatn
Husavik Whale-Watching

The next day we headed off to go whale-watching in Husavik.  We took the bus (by the cultural centre) which was incredibly easy.  If memory serves, it cost about 2100 ISK per person for the hour and a half ride.  We caught the bus around 8, and arrived in Husavik in time for the 10:45 trip with North Sailing.

Seeing as it can get cold out on the open water, especially in winter, North Sailing provided massive (and warm!) coveralls – like snowsuit onesies you get for kids – to everyone on board, as well as storage for bags in the hold underneath.  We headed out onto the water and quickly spotted quite a few birds – gannets, skuas, and puffins mostly, with a few ducks and geese thrown in.  We went as most birds were migrating back to Iceland; had we gone much earlier I don’t know how many puffins we would have seen.

About a half hour or so after heading out, maybe a bit more, we came to the other side of the bay, and slowed down.  This is apparently a big spot for whales.  Another half hour of slow going the BF and I (and most likely the guide, but I’m pretty sure no other tourists) spotted a spout of water.  Sure enough – whale!  And not just any whale – the guide identified it as a blue whale.  We raced over to where we had seen it surface, and waited.

Here’s the thing with whale-watching -you wait a lot.  We did see it surface several times; it would surface a series of times before diving back down, at which point we would wait 20 to 30 minutes, before it would surface a series of times again.  We probably saw this repetition four or five times before we headed back to Husavik.

Reykjavik – hotels
The next day we headed back to Reykjavik.  Another short hop of a flight, and then a taxi ride to our hostel.  We stayed at the Downtown Reykjavik HI Hostel, which I highly recommend.  It’s decently priced – we stayed in a private double with en suite bathroom, and it was about $100CDN, which for Reykjavik is cheap.  The dorm rooms are, of course, cheaper, but then you’re sharing the room with 9 other people.  The hostel itself is relatively close to most things of interest – close enough that you can walk, far enough away that you’re not woken up at night by drunken revellers (unless you’re in the dorm rooms, of course.)  They serve a buffet breakfast for about $12 (bagels, deli meat, cheese, some fruit, coffee, juice, cereal).  They also have free wi-fi.

Halfway through our stay in Reykjavik, we switched to Hotel Centrum Reykjavik.  The BF (up to this point) wasn’t too sure about hostels, so as a compromise we agreed to switch to a hotel.  Fail.  Massive, massive fail.  The doors to the hotel are marked with the hotel logo, but not the name.  The name is on one of the buildings, but the logo is not there.  When you first walk in, you are greeted with a menu for the attached French restaurant.  The check-in desk is a few metres into the building.  It’s a strange set-up, and at first we had difficulty figuring out if we were in the right place.

The staff there were great – very friendly, very helpful.  The hotel itself is clean, although the carpets do look like they suffered some water damage in the past, which isn’t a comforting thought.  The bed in our room (Room 423) was horrible.  Two single beds, of different heights, pushed together.  Very uncomfortable to sleep on.  Other than that our room was fine – large, airy, en suite bathroom, small sitting area.  Also worth a note: wi-fi is not free.  I think it was about 150Kr per hour.

Reykjavik – activities

With Smairi the first horse I rode

The last time I was in Reykjavik, I had wanted to go horse-back riding but didn’t have the chance.  So this time, I pre-booked with Ishestar to do a full-day of riding.  I took horse-back riding lessons as a kid/teenager, but to be honest, it’s probably been about 20 years since I’d been on a horse.

I sent off an email, and quickly received a reply.  They have a full day “Viking Tour” that combines  a morning Lava tour, which doesn’t require any experience, and an afternoon Express Viking tour, which does require an intermediate level of knowledge. It was about $155 CDN for the full day, with lunch and hotel pick up/drop off included.

On Ljosi, my afternoon ride

I had fun with both – the morning was a good re-introduction, and helped me feel more comfortable.  The afternoon was more exciting – I got to try several different gaits, including the tolt, and we spent a lot of time galloping over the terrain.  The staff was wonderful, and the horses (mostly) fantastic.  In the afternoon, I started out on one horse that….well, she wasn’t for me.  She was a little stubborn, and I found her gait very bumpy; so not only was I spending most of the time fighting to get her to go (her default speed was stop) and I also spent a lot of time trying to stay on her back during the gallops and tolting.  My guide and I switched horses at our first break, and the second horse was much more my speed – eager to run, and he had a very smooth gait. 

The BF and I also got a 24-hour Reykjavik city card.  This gave us access to the city’s swimming pools, some museums, as well as the bus system.  We visited Settlement 871, and the Laugardalur swimming pool (take bus 14 from the city centre).  The swimming pool was really interesting – besides a pool to do laps, there are several “hot tubs” as well as a kiddie area.  Nothing quite like swimming in a bikini when it’s only 2C outside!  Well worth a visit.

One day while the BF was at Eve Fanfest, I wandered around the city.  I visited the Penis Museum, which had wanted to go to last time, but didn’t because I was with my mother.  My mom and I are close, but not sharing the experience of going to the Penis Museum close. 
It’s nearly $10 CDN to get in, and they don’t accept cards (make sure you have cash, although there is an ATM in the bus station across the road).  I had a good laugh while wandering around – it’s not a large museum, one large open room, with three or four smaller rooms on the sides, but it is interesting.  Besides preserved penises, there are also a few penis memorabilia (a phone, for instance)

I also wandered around the city a bit, seeing sites that I had seen before, and looking to see what I remember, and what I didn’t. I went by Red Rock Cinema, where a local volcano chaser (is that a thing?) shows his volcano movies daily.  I had already seen it with my mother back in 2008, so I chose not to do a repeat.  I did, however, buy the DVD.  My mother had wanted a copy and we never got a chance last time.

 One night the BF and I did hit up The Volcano House, which is close to the Downtown Hostel (and offers a discount to HI members).  It was OK, but I have to say I preferred Red Rock Cinema.

The Eve Online fanfest people had arranged for the Reykjavik symphony to play music from Eve on the opening night of the Fanfest.  The Fanfest is held at Harpa, the concert hall by the harbour, and so was the symphony.  I enjoyed the music – I thought the musicians did a fantastic job, although I don’t actually know the music from Eve.  (The BF says they were very good, so I figure he would know)

Eating and Drinking
Most evenings in Reykjavik, we headed to the Dubliner Pub.  It was a quiet pub most nights, although they did frequently have someone on stage playing music.  We’re not huge party people, so this became our “local” for our stay.  We did hit a few other places – The English Pub was also a nice place to hit up, as was Uppsalir Bar (which has two for one draft for happy hour!).  And Cafe Stofan was a great place to chill out on a rainy Saturday – comfortable armchairs and couches to sit in, and good coffee.

We tried a variety of restaurants in Reykjavik.  I like Tobasco’s – a Mexican restaurant (that serves traditional Icelandic food as well).  We also ate at an Indian restaurant – Gandhi Restaurant – that had good food, if not very spicy.  Geysir, close to the hostel we stayed in, had good food, and a bit more of an upscale atmosphere to it.  Krua Thai, on Tryggvagata, is a good place for Thai, very tasty, but they don’t do table service.

Waterfalls, Geysers and Hot Springs (Oh My)
We did a tour with the Eve Online Fanfest people to Gullfoss, Geysir and Thingvellir National Park.  A Golden Circle tour is worth it, although I think summer is better, as you can spend longer at Thingvellir….or at least, that was true 5 years ago.  We had a 20 minute “leg stretch” really, and then it was back on the bus and on to Gullfoss.

Later on, after the Fanfest, the BF and I booked two tours with Reykjavik Excursions.  I had used them in 2008, and had a wonderful experience.  I saw no reason to switch to a different company (there are several that ply the same routes to the major tourist attractions.)  That was a bad decision on my part.  They wrote down the name of our hostel wrong, so our pick up for the Blue Lagoon never showed up.  When we called, they just said “We’ll pick you up in an hour” and that was it.  No sorry, no discount.

Chilling in the sun and warm waters

We did at least get to go to Blue Lagoon, eventually.  I preferred the Myvatn Nature Baths in the north, but Blue Lagoon is relaxing as well.  We were lucky – there really weren’t a lot of people, although it can fill up.  If you’re not going up north, it’s worth the trip.  If you have, or are planning to, visit Myvatn, don’t feel you’re missing something by not going to the Blue Lagoon.  One handy feature many companies have is  a combined Blue Lagoon/airport trip – they will pick you and your luggage up, drop you off at the Blue Lagoon for a few hours, then pick you up and take you to the airport (The Blue Lagoon is between Reykjavik and the Keflavik airport).  We didn’t choose this option, we wanted to take our time, but some people on our bus had.  Reykjavik Excursions, and I assume the other companies, have huge luggage storage areas for your luggage if you choose to do this option.

When we had arranged our Blue Lagoon tour, we had also arranged to do the South Shore Adventure, the day after, again with Reykjavik Excursions.  Our pick up showed up, and took us to the BSI terminal to transfer to a bigger bus (this is a common practise.)  We got on, and immediately smelt smoke.  We asked some people already on the bus – and they told us that the bus had filled with smoke a few minutes before.  The driver and guide had opened the windows to air it out.  (No, we didn’t get a different bus.  We took that one.)

Other things about the tour bothered us:  The tour guide had a horrible stutter, so it was really hard to listen to him.  He was very friendly and very knowledgeable about the area, but it was painful trying to follow him.  The bus had some trouble at the glacier we visited, but we were told it was fine.  Later on, it actually over-heated, and the driver had to use water to cool the engine down.  The driver was also very unfamiliar with the bus – he couldn’t figure out the heating, so we had to keep pulling over and stopping so the driver could fiddle with it.

Now that that’s out the way, the sites.
We started at Eyjafjallajokull, the volcano that erupted three years disrupting air traffic to and from Europe.  (Considering that I tend to visit places right before natural disasters, that might not have been the best of places for me to go).  It was a quick stop, as there really isn’t much to see, but it was still interesting.  Especially when you find out that there’s a farm at the base of the volcano!

Dirty ice

From there we hit the Salheimajokull glacier, where companies over glacier walking.  (You actually just walk on the tongue of the glacier, as the body of glaciers are very dangerous.)  We didn’t get to walk on the glacier, although we did get to go up close and touch the ice – if we dared.  This particular glacier sits over an active volcano, so intermixed with the ice is ash.  It makes for a very dirty glacier.  If you’re planning on driving yourself, be aware that it is a very rough, dirt road to the glacier.

Not black sand.

After that, we continued along the Ring Road down to Vik.  There’s a “black sand beach” just outside Vik that is a big attraction.  It certainly is interesting, however….it’s black rocks, not black sand.  I think we would have enjoyed it more in the summer, as it was the wind was blowing, and it was cold on the open beach.  We did get a good look around at the basalt columns and natural rock formations just off the beach.

Basalt columns on the beach

If we had had more time, I would have loved to have taken a walk along the beach, or up the hill over the basalt columns.  But we had only a short stop, and it was chilly, so we quickly got back on the bus for the short jaunt into Vik, and for lunch.

We stopped at a small cafe, that served the regular food – hamburgers, fries, and Icelandic lamp soup.  The food was good, although it wasn’t anything fancy.  There was also a shop nearby that we took a quick look in.  (We ended up buying a reindeer hide)

A 92-year-old Icelandic man explaining fishing gear

 After lunch, it was back on the road, this time to the Skogar Folk Museum.  Here we got a look at items used in everyday life in Iceland, up to quite recently.  It was interesting to see how they lived before the advent of international air travel, when goods had to be imported by boat.  We were given a brief tour, then allowed to wander around on our own.  We also were allowed to wander into a few sod roof houses that are part of the museum.  One of the houses was used up until 1970!

Sod roof houses in Skogar

 Beside the town is a beautiful waterfall – Skogafoss.  We drove over, and walked beside the small stream up to the waterfall.  As you approach, the view opens up, and you get a glimpse of an incredible rainbow, from the spray as the waterfall descends.  It’s a beautiful sight, and we had amazing weather for it.  Blue skies, sun shining.  We spent a bit more time here, as everyone was enjoying themselves.

 But we weren’t done yet.  We had one more waterfall to go, before we headed back to Reykjavik.  Seljalandsfoss is a short drive away, back towards the city.  This waterfall is interesting, because you can actually walk behind the waterfall, as the water has worn the surrounding rocks away.  Or at least, normally you can.  Given how cold it had been when we went to visit, it was hardly surprising that the spray had turned to ice, coating everything close to the waterfall.  Even the staircases were coated with a fine layer, as was the grass.  I’m sure in better weather it’s magnificent, but I was a little underwhelmed at this point.  (Then again, it was the fourth waterfall I’d seen in under a week.)

TL;DR version:

– Hotel Akureyri
– Bautinn Restaurant in Akureyri
– Saga Tours
– North Sailing
– HI Downtown Hostel Reykjvaik
– Ishestar Riding Tours
– The Dubliner Pub in Reykjavik

– Hotel Centrum Reykjavik – uncomfortable beds, no free wifi
– late open for shops (10:00)
– Pubs not open in Akureyri until 8 p.m.
– Expensive – understandable, but still 😦
– Reykjavik Excursions tours

Smokey Bay

One of the things I  miss the most when travelling, is running.  There’s nothing quite like that perfect run – morning, the sun is shining, it’s warm but not yet hot and/or humid.  And the pavement seems to slide under your feet, your lungs breathe in perfect tandem to the pounding of your feet.  I run when I get fantastic news – I want to wear off the extra exhilaration. I run when I get not-so-fantastic news – I want to wear off the extra frustration.  But when I’m travelling, it’s not always feasible.  Except that time in Iceland. 

The whole idea behind Iceland was to run 10K in the Glitnir Marathon in Reykjavik.  No real reason for that.  I just saw a pamphlet and decided to start running, and do it.

Running in Reykjavik was surreal.  Around mid route, the race edged the Atlantic Ocean for 2 k, and for the rest it meandered through the city.  With none of my normal landmarks, there was no mental block prompting me to mark the distance.  I didn’t notice the kilometres passing below me, instead I took in the sights and the people lining the streets cheering us on.  It was a great way to see the city, and to find areas that I wanted to visit later on.

After my race, my mother (my cheerleader at the finish line) and I headed to the Blue Lagoon. A relaxing float in the warm  silica infused water was the perfect tonic to the stresses of life (and racing!)

We used Reykjavik Excursions for all of our trips – they pick you up at your hotel and then drop you off there at the end of the day.  No matter how hard I tried to stay awake and enjoy the scenery, after a day filled to the 9-hour brim I found myself nodding off as we cruised down the Ring Road.  Thankfully, a lot of Iceland looks the same, or at least the southern part does.  We visited Thingvellir National Park, where the tectonic plates in Iceland are pulling apart; Gullfoss, Iceland’s most famous waterfall; and Strokkur a geysir that erupts regularly.  (Every 5 minutes or so!)  We also got to climb a glacier covered volcano.  You’re free to guess which one.

Besides my race day, I didn’t touch my running shoes for the rest of my trip.  I have no plans to run another race.  I don’t want to supplant the memory of my run through Reykjavik with something less.  But maybe I’ll plan another trip where I can bring my running shoes and run along some other foreign shore.

And if you’re wondering? “Reykjavik” translates to “Smokey Bay” in English.